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Severed Goat Head For Lunch In Bac Ha, Vietnam

August 25, 2008

Do not look for scrumptious and mouthwatering food photography of perfectly rolled sushi or smooth Tiramisu from the rugged mountains of Northwest Vietnam, home of the Hmong hill tribe minorities.

Goat head is what’s for lunch!

Nearing towards the end of my eventually 9 month long Southeast Asia photography trip I decided to spend my 41st birthday away from the exhausting intensity of tourist traps and returned to the peaceful and picturesque Bac Ha.

hmong goat head soup bac ha vietnam

Hmong shopkeeper at the famous Bac Ha Sunday market enjoying a bowl of noodle soup:

hmong-market-lunch-bac-ha-vietnam

An incredibly cute Hmong girl daydreaming and taking occasional bites from a handful of raw ground meat:

hmong-girl-bac-ha-vietnam

Separating the main subject from the busy background of the Bac Ha market is no easy feat; more or less pointless to sweat it:

hmong-minority-market-photography-bac-ha-vietnam

People-watching at the market never gets old, during the last 9 months I’ve visited 4 Sunday markets during 2 separate trips to Bac Ha:

people-photography-bac-ha-vietnam

Yes!!! I have found a peaceful background for this photo at the market! There should be some sort of award for this kind of genius:

hmong-man-buffalo-bac-ha-vietnam

I am spotted again even though I was using a telephoto lens; there is nothing wrong with eye contact with the camera during candid photography as long as it results in a good photo:

travel-photographer-bac-ha-vietnam

Hmong men bargaining and generally having a good time pulling each other’s chains at the water buffalo section of the Sunday market:

hmong-men-bargaining-bac-ha-vietnam

A tourist is trying the rescue this adorable puppy from its inevitable destination, the frying pan:

tourist-with-puppy-bac-ha-vietnam

If I spoke Hmong I would have loved to ask this vendor what he was selling:

hmong-minority-market-store-bac-ha-vietnam

The vantage point was not the best for my taste but periodically returning to the river bank provided me with the priceless simple background and a nice contrasting blue against the vivid colors of Hmong hill tribe fashion:

hmong-woman-bac-ha-vietnam

Probably my favorite travel photography subject during hikes through the mountains just outside Bac Ha is kids doing their chores and taking water buffalos out to graze:

hmong-girl-riding-buffalo-bac-ha-vietnam

Very funny and cute how these super shy Hmong girls were evading my camera:

shy-hmong-girls-hiding-bac-ha-vietnam

Educational poster in the classroom of a Hmong elementary school:

hmong-school-picture-bac-ha-vietnam

Photo taken from my hotel room overlooking the super laid back Bac Ha (there are no ATMs):

travel-photography-bac-ha-vietnam

My spotless 5 dollar hotel room with the above killer view.
I left after one day due to bug bites. This was one of the nicest and cheapest hotels I stayed during the past 9 months so it was ironic that I got bitten only here out of all the places I stayed:

luxury-hotel-room-bac-ha-vietnam

Luxury beyond my wildest dreams; five dollars goes a long way while traveling off the beaten track in Southeast Asia:

luxury-hotel-bathroom-bac-ha-vietnam

So I returned to the same modest hotel I stayed during my first visit, it was a cozy place with a super friendly owner; same $5 price, no bites and even mosquito nets (no, I did not ask for the Cinderella Suite):

modest-hotel-room-bac-ha-vietnam

This level of luxury is just fine with me, give me hot water and I am a happy camper:

modest-hotel-bathroom-bac-ha-vietnam

I made an excellent decision to return to Bac Ha, once again I did the unthinkable and skipped the most popular travel destination of the region: the stunning scenery of Sapa coupled with the relentless harassment by locals to shop shop shop.

Tourist traps … I am too old for that buffalo $hit!

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  1. Marlene says on September 22, 2008 at 8:31 am

    Happy Birthday by the way!!!!
    hehe…and the nice hotel room that u eventually stayed looks sooo cosy and homey!!! hope u had a great birthday!!! ^_^

  2. Loris says on October 22, 2008 at 6:00 pm

    This all looks fantastic!
    Do you remember the name of this cosy place you stayed at?
    Is Bac Ha only worth going if including a Sunday for the market?
    BTW: now in which place of the world are you?

  3. Nancy Do says on March 7, 2010 at 10:01 pm

    Ferenc! What a coincidence that I was googling “Vietnamese boy on water buffalo” for my art homework and I clicked on an image and it turned out to be from this page! Man you’ve been to Vietnam a lot more than I have! I want to go back so badly. Well, one day when I have funds. BTW it’s Nancy from Model Mayhem! ahaha. take care!

  4. naybusky says on July 29, 2010 at 12:03 pm

    You got me at severed goats head. I went to Vietnam 17 years age just 2 weeks after the US lifted the trade embargo. 1993 I’m now 38 and desperately want to go back with my family. I stumbled on you blog and the photos are divine. Just the Vietnam I’m hoping to still find pockets of. I’ve started a blog of my shots from 17 years age if your interested. http://vietnam1993.blogspot.com/

    Cheers to you, Nay

  5. naybusky says on July 30, 2010 at 3:52 pm

    I still love off the beaten track, do you have any good tips for Vietnam for me…. I still think of my 8 months of traveling through Asia nearly every day and it’s been 17 years. It leaves a fingerprint on your soul, and you have the advantage of photographing it beautifully. I will be adding more photos slowly as they are all old negs.(which I love and miss) I have a blog of Borneo from last year you might like – this is the link.

    http://borneothebigadventure.blogspot.com/

    Sorry there’s a bit of family stuff….

    Thanks for replying
    Regards Nay